CSO MILK METHOD OF CLEANSING LINSEED OIL

UNREFINED FLAX OIL : CLEANSING METHODS

See the page: WASHING LINSEED OIL for additional information and photos

See the page : BOOK CONTENTS
FOR ALL UPDATES AND NEW INFORMATION NOT FOUND IN MY BOOK

TO DUPLICATE THE OLD MASTERS' EXTRAORDINARY 'PAINT
QUALITY',
YOU MUST USE THE SAME SUPERIOR OIL THEY USED.

THE OLD MASTERS' FAST DRYING OIL ALLOWS THE ELIMINATION OF
SOLVENTS,RESINS,VARNISHES AND DRIERS

SOME INSTRUCTORS EXPRESS THEIR VIEW THAT TO OIL PAINT WITHOUT ANY SOLVENTS,
RESINS AND DRIERS AND VARNISHES, ALL ONE HAS TO DO IS USE THE PAINT RIGHT OUT OF
THE TUBE.
YES IT IS TRUE. ONE CAN AVOID ALL THOSE HAZARDOUS MATERIALS ...BY JUST NOT USING
THEM.

HOWEVER, THE METHOD OF JUST USING THE OIL PAINT RIGHT OUT OF THE TUBE IS VERY
LIMITING AND WILL NOT ALLOW ONE TO ACHIEVE THE GREAT BEAUTY OF PAINT WE SEE IN
THE OLD MASTERS' PAINTINGS.
THIS IS THE RESULT OF USING OIL PAINT FROM THE TUBE WITHOUT ANY ADDITIV

* Dries comparatively soft
* Loss of color depth and luster
* Poor blending
* No Thixotropy
* No Micro-Fine details
* Extremely slow drying
* Suede effect is disturbing

FREDERIC TAUBES (1900-1981), DEFINED THE TERM "PAINT QUALITY" IN THE EARLY 20TH
CENTURY. THE UNIQUE BEAUTY OF PAINT OF THE OLD MASTERS' PAINTINGS, IS
IMMEDIATELY RECOGNIZED WHEN COMPARED TO THE POST INDUSTRIAL ERA OIL
PAINTINGS.

THIS PAGE AND THE PAGE TITLED: WASHING LINSEED OIL
ARE DEDICATED TO RAISING AWARENESS OF THE SUPERIOR PROPERTIES AND
IMPORTANCE OF THE OLD MASTERS" SUPERIOR OIL.

CLEANSING THE UNREFINED FLAX OIL : ISSUES, QUESTIONS . ANSWERS
Donald Fels' Book, " Lost Secrets of Flemish Painting: ... "
INCLUDES THE FIRST COMPLETE ENGLISH TRANSLATION OF THE DE MAYERNE MANUSCRIPT WRITTEN IN FRENCH BY A MEDICAL DOCTOR, THEODORE
DE MAYERNE , DATED 1620. THIS MISH MASH, CONVOLUTED, INCOMPLETE, JINGLE- JANGLE CONTENT OF MANY SUBJECTS BESIDES OIL PAINTING,
INCLUDES TED'S OWN IDEAS ON " WHAT TO TRY NEXT" ...' TO SEE IF IT WORKS OR NOT" [ MY QUOTES]. TED DEMAYERNE'S QUOTE: IN FELS' BOOK,
PUBLISHED IN 2001, ON PAGE 162, IS LISTED A PAGE FROM THE MANUSCRIPT, NUMBERED ; MS P.16 (VERSO). IT QUOTES TED DEMAYERNE AS SAYING
THIS:
" MANY BELIEVE THAT ALL OILS OBTAINED FROM PRESSING ARE VERY DIFFICULT OR TOTALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO DISTILL".
THE MANUSCRIPT GIVES NUMEROUS WAYS THE OLDER PAINTERS TRIED, IN CLEANSING THEIR OIL. PERHAPS IN THE END, IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO FULLY
REMOVE ALL THE MUCILAGE FROM THE UNREFINED OIL. BUT, WE MUST TRY TO DO OUR BEST. CERTAINLY, MODERN ALKALI REFINEMENT WITH USE OF
CAUSTIC LYE CHEMICALS AND HIGH HEATING TEMPERATURES IS NOT AN ACCEPTABLE ALTERNATIVE BECAUSE THE LYE SODIUM HYDROXIDE
CHEMICALS AND HIGH HEAT CAUSE IRREPARABLE DAMAGE TO THE OIL.

THE DVD DEMONSTRATES THE PSYLLIUM-ALCOHOL METHOD.
It is based on what I learned from Pacheco's method. It is an excellent method in which I identified Psyllium
Husk as a replacement for the Lavender flowers, thus , making it a SAFE method without any solvent.
The key is to allow the mixture to STAND STILL for 8 to 10 days in the sun before filtering it.
This Cleansed oil can then be sun thickened. If you wish to store it for later-
place it in an air tight jar- it will keep for centuries.

My Book gives several methods on the cleansing of the unrefined oil.
THE VEL-TAUB METHOD actually allows you to see the mucilage drop out of the oil.
Its drawback is the tediousness labor intensive requirement to separate the cleansed oil from the water bed..

THE CROCK POT METHOD is effective but one cannot see the mucilage as the calcium carbonate powder absorbs it.

THE PACHECO METHOD. This 17th century method allows one to see the separation and precipitation of the white mucilage . The method
is excellent. But, its drawback for my book is that it contains hazardous spike solvent from the Lavender flowers. Francisco Pacheco was
Diego VELAZQUEZ' teacher and certainly it was taught to VELAZQUEZ.

HOW CAN WE TELL IF THE OIL IS CLEAN?
I HAVE LEARNED THAT THE CLARITY AND TRANSPARENCY OF THE OIL IS NOT A GOOD INDICATOR OF BEING MUCILAGE FREE. LOWERED TEMPERATURE
CHANGES ,. CHANGES THE TRANSPARENCY, AS DOES MOISTURE CONDENSATION. ONE METHOD THAT IS RELIABLE IS USE OF THE ' WATER SEDIMENT TRAP',
A TERM I COINED TO DESCRIBE THE RESTING OF OIL ON WATER. ANY AQUEOUS MATERIAL IS DRAWN BY THE POLARITY OF THE WATER. WITHOUT THE DRAW
BY THE WATER...THE MUCILAGE REMAINS FULLY SUSPENDED IN THE OIL...AND IT IS INVISIBLE. YET. BOTH OIL AND WATER HAVE MASS AND WEIGHT.
EXAMPLE; 300 POUNDS OF WATER, OR 300 POUNDS OF OIL, ARE HEAVY. SINCE OIL FLOATS ON WATER, THIS IS 300 POUNDS OF OIL SITTING ON AN
IMMOVEABLE SUBSTANCE [ 300 POUNDS OF WATER]. THIS WEIGHT CAUSES SOME DEGREE OF EMULSIFICATION AT THE JUNCTION POINT. THIS
EMULSIFICATION IS CLOUDY, OPAQUE. BUT, IF THE OIL HAS BEEN CLEANSED BY ANY OF THE PROCEDURES IN MY BOOK THE OPAQUE LINE IS ALMOST NON
EXISTENT. COMPARING DIFFERENT OILS WILL SHOW DIFFERENT RESULTS.

REPEAT FILTERING
ONCE THE OIL IS PROCESSED BY ANY OF MY METHODS, ONE CAN REPEAT THE FILTERING.
One problem is the cotton ball used as the filter. If it is not placed tightly enough, mucilage will pass. A NEW DEVELOPMENT_ 7/16/10= Use of a high quality
Vacuum cleaner bag. Read the label. Some remove 99.9% of particles smaller than an invisible dust spot. I used a Hoover J and there are others. Take the
bag apart carefully. Use scissors to make several filters that you can fold and place in a funnel. It drains the oil faster than a cotton ball. Cotton ball filters
take a few hours. The Vacuum cleaner bag does it in less than an hour.

CONCLUSION
THERE IS NO ALTERNATIVE, UNTIL SOMEONE ELSE DISCOVERS A TRULY BETTER SOLUTION.
SIMPLE GRAVITY BY ITSELF, WILL NOT REMOVE ALL THE MUCILAGE, NO MATTER HOW LONG THE OIL STANDS STILL.
I HAVE READ THE ACADEMIC REPORT BY THE HIGHLY RESPECTED CONSERVATIONIST, LESLIE CARYLYLE , IN WHICH SHE STATES THAT IF THE OIL STANDS
LONG ENOUGH.... ALL...THE MUCILAGE WILL SETTLE. I BELIEVE I CAN PROVE THAT IS SIMPLY NOT TRUE. I HAVE NOT YET READ HER REPORT OF TESTING AND
COMPARISON OF OIL THAT WAS " WATER WASHED" BY AN OLD METHOD, AND COMPARED TO THE CONTROL OIL THAT WAS NOT WASHED. I UNDERSTAND
HER RESULTS DETERMINED THAT THIS METHOD, WAS BASICALLY USELESS. THE NUMEROUS CLEANSING EFFORTS OF THE OLD MASTERS RESULTED FROM
THEIR ORAL TRADITIONS AND KNOWLEDGE THEY LEARNED THAT EVEN 'STAND OIL" [ oil allowed to stand for extensive periods of time] WAS NOT CLEAN. I
HAVE ALWAYS MAINTAINED THAT THE "WATER WASHING METHOD" OF THE OIL IS A WASTE OF TIME, ENERGY, AND OIL. I HOPE ONE DAY MS. CARLYLE WILL
FOCUS HER HIGHLY RESPECTED TRAINING AND RESOURCES INTO THE STUDY OF THE MANY WAYS THE OIL CAN BE CLEANSED OF THE MUCILAGE.

PHOTO RIGHT
THE SUPERIOR LINSEED/ FLAX OIL OF THE OLD MASTERS
EXAMPLE OF 30 DAY SUN THICKENED FLAX OIL: PROCESSED FROM UNREFINED FLAX OIL, CLEANSED OF MUCILAGE BY
NON CAUSTIC METHODS, SUN AND AIR EXPOSED FOR 30 DAYS IN SUMMER SUN. ONCE YOU TRY THE SUPERIOR OIL I
DESCRIBE ABOVE , YOU WILL KNOW THE DIFFERENCE.

MY OPPOSITION TO HIGH PRICED OIL
UNFORTUNATELY, SELLERS OF SUN THICKEN OIL CHARGE VERY HIGH PRICES, CHARGING ANYWHERE FROM $10 + PER
OUNCE. I AM COMPLETELY IN OPPOSITION TO THAT PRACTICE. I FULLY UNDERSTAND THAT "CARING" FOR OIL FOR 30
DAYS, IS TIME CONSUMING AND TEDIOUS, BUT I BELIEVE THE SUPERIOR OIL CAN BE MASS PRODUCED AT REASONABLE
PRICES.

I WILL SELL THE SUPERIOR OIL : $5 PER OUNCE
TO ANY ARTIST FOR $5 AN OUNCE. PLUS GROUND SHIPPING. I WILL ONLY SELL TO ARTISTS.
I WILL NOT SELL TO PERSONS WHO WISH TO RESELL FOR PROFIT. MY SUPPLIES ARE LIMITED, AND I CAN ONLY SELL IN
SMALL QUANTITIES OF 4 FLUID OUNCES OR 8 FLUID OUNCES PER ORDER.

I ENCOURAGE ARTISTS TO BUY THEIR CALCIUM CARBONATE/ CHALK FROM CHAMPAGNE, DIRECTLY FROM
www.kremer-pigmente.de THIS GERMAN COMPANY HAS DISTRIBUTORS WORLDWIDE. IN THE USA, THEY HAVE 2 OFFICES
IN NEW YORK.

I ENCOURAGE ARTISTS TO GRIND THEIR OWN 'CSO'. I NO LONGER SELL PRE MIXED CSO.
FOR CERTAIN CUSTOMERS WITH DISABILITIES, I CAN GRIND THE 'CSO'
PLEASE WRITE FOR DETAILS AND PRICES.

I ENCOURAGE ARTISTS TO CLEANSE THEIR OWN UNREFINED FLAX OIL WITH THIS REMARKABLY EFFICENT AND EASY
'PSYLLIUM ALCOHOL" METHOD. THEN YOU WILL SEE HOW EASY AND INEXPENSIVELY IT IS TO MAKE YOUR OWN
SUPERIOR OIL OF THE OLD MASTERS.

TESTING THE CLEANSED OIL FOR CLEANLINESS

The use of the Water Sediment Test is a good indicator on whether the CLEANSED OIL oil contains mucilage.

Care must be taken because the simple fact that two liquids, one on top the other, may just show a thin film of
emulsification at the juncture point.

And, the degree of mechanical filtration is another consideration, as a poor filtering will allow mucilage or other
sediment to enter the oil. EXAMPLE: In using the Lavender flower, I found that the minute sized fuzz from the
flower buttons can pass through the filter. The same for use of the Psyllium Husk.

However, there is reason to believe that the Water Sediment Trap is a good indicator on whether the chosen
cleansing method, did or did not remove the mucilage..

TRULY, only a science lab can measure the quantity of mucilage in oil, but we know the Old Masters did not have
any of our modern instruments and some of them succeeded. I reject the notion that the cleansing of the oil was a
complicated or time consuming process.

In my opinion, the 'water washing' processes where oil is REPEATEDLY vigorously shaken with water , IS A WASTE
OF TIME AND OIL.
My book explains the reasons.

These series of tests show the results of 1/4 inch of oil resting - NOT EVER MIXED OR SHAKEN TOGETHER-
on 2 ounces of water, over several days. The results are interesting.
The white paper resting beneath the jars has 2 lines. a solid black and a red. It turned out the red was not
waterproof, and one morning we had a lot of DEW on the paper, causing the red to bleed. The photos speak for
themselves. Continue to scroll down to see all the photos.

ALLBACK SWEDISH OIL
They produce 2 kinds: BOILED and
PURIFIED My tests used the oil right from the
container.

#6 = ON YOUR LEFT; Their Purified Oil
#10 = ON YOUR RIGHT: Their BOILED oil

SEE THE REPORT BELOW EXPLAINING
WHY I CANNOT RECOMMEND ALLBACK
LINSEED OIL FOR FINE ART PAINTING

BARLEANS UNREFINED FLAX OIL

#11=On your left, is the UNCLEAN oil right out of the
bottle. It is known to be full of mucilage.

# 13=On your right: Barleans oil, previously cleansed
by the VEL-TAUB method, then SUN THICKENED for 30
days. The oil is beginning to crystalize and dry HARD. It
is pure colorless clear as it is drying on the water, as
only 1/4 inch oil is resting on the water.

SWEDISH ALLBACK LINSEED OIL =
EXCELLENT FOR HOUSE PAINTING
NOT RECOMMENDED FOR FINE ART OIL PAINTING
BECAUSE THEY WILL NOT TELL HOW HOT THEY HEAT THEIR "PURIFIED LINSEED OIL

Swedish , Allback linseed oil, is sold in the USA by ….http://www.solventfreepaint.com ... but manufactured and processed by the Allback company of Sweden.

I have read their website carefully several times, and I have written to them for specific information.
Swedish words translated into English, as in all language translations, lose some meaning.
Example; Their website says that if linseed oil is not first purified, but is BOILED to a certain temperature, it will EXPLODE. ......Well, that’s not true.
But, it will IGNITE. It is not that they are misleading us, just that the translation is weak.
I was able to understand the basic information their website says about their oil by applying common sense and use of my experience.

The one important question I have asked Allback, is this; ‘ What is the maximum temperature your PURIFIED oil…not your BOILED oil --- is heated to.
This very important question is based on my research of scientific academic sources that states flax/linseed oil begins to decompose at 230-236 degrees centigrade.
The allback company has never responded to my letters. The USA representative did respond after two letters, and would only say that the process is patented, and they will not
divulge it. This reluctance to inform the public is not helpful to us artists. My patent in the USA is open to the public, so I do not understand the reluctance.

PLEASE KEEP THE DECOMPOSITION TEMPERATURE IN MIND AS YOU READ THIS REPORT
This information is from academic sources and is on my website:
200 Degrees Centigrade = The Old Masters use of a goose quill to indicate SAFE heating temperature
230-236 Degrees Centigrade = DECOMPOSITION BEGINS / Carbonization/ Reduced Lifespan
300 Degrees Centigrade = Modern Stand Oil - heated/ without Oxygen
300 Degrees Centigrade = Oil smokes and produces TOXIC Carbon Monoxide and Acrolein gas vapors
343 Degrees Centigrade + = Oil begins to BOIL
343 Degrees Centigrade + = Oil Ignites / Catches fire
380 - 425 Degrees Centigrade= Burnt Plate Oil made by modern testing
Some websites recommend use of Burnt Plate Oil.
BURNT PLATE OIL is a very decomposed oil meant for disposable Lithography. Its true name is ‘ Lithography oil”.
Rembrandt's etching were made with Lithography Oil, and they are kept under wraps, covered, in the shade as much as possible.

The Allback website states they process and sell two kinds of linseed oil. BOILED and PURIFIED.

1. ALLBACK'S " BOILED" linseed oil.
Swedish Flax oil is undoubtedly one of the highest quality oil GROWN and HARVESTED in the world. But the processing of the RAW OIL determines the FINAL QUALITY for the needs of
artists. This Allback oil is BOILED and they do not deny it. They in fact are very proud of it, as they should be. Because its high quality BOILED OIL is made for painting houses and
fences and all manner of wooden objects , AND... they NEVER advertise it for fine art oil painting. Linseed/ flax oil begins to BOIL at 343 degrees centigrade. This is far above the safe
temperature of 230-236 degrees centigrade at which time the oil begins decomposition. What does ’decomposition’ mean in terms of artists oil? This: For house
painting, 50 years is an adequate life span, and no one expects more. Of course the house is blasted by rain, sleet, sun and snow. It’s a miracle it lasts 50 years.
A Van Eyck painting left to those outrageous conditions would not fare any better. The key here is that by BOILING the oil, and causing its decomposition, its lifespan is severely
compromised. But given that its service is - 50 years, it’s a moot point. I would bet my money that if the house was painted with Allback BOILED oil, and kept indoors next to the Van
Eyck painting for 600 years, it would not come close to the state of preservation of the Van Eyck painting.
CONCLUSION ON ALLBACK'S BOILED LINSEED OIL: : DO NOT use any BOILED linseed oil for fine art oil painting regardless on who makes it
Science says it is severely decomposed with a shortened life span.

2 . ALLBACK'S " PURIFIED linseed oil".
a. = The oil is pressed COLD. This is GOOD. Cold Pressed oil is great, but even gentle heat in pressing is allowable as this oil is very TOUGH.
b. = Then it is stored and allowed to stand still. This is GOOD too , because this means it is allowed to settle the vegetable particulate caused by the pressing of the seeds. When
freshly pressed it is FULL of husk, dirt, and other sediment. Gravity will allow this heavier particulate to settle.
c. = Then the top clear oil is siphoned off. This is GOOD. Because now the clear oil is easier to be further processed. Allback, just as the Old Masters, learned something very
important. NO AMOUNT of gravity will remove the MUCILAGE. Mucilage is a very complex ingredient. Nature placed it inside the seed for reasons of nurturing the rebirth of the seed
when it is sown into the ground. Mucilage is INVISIBLE to the naked human eye. If you looked at a WARM glass of that clear bright top oil siphoned off the top, it would sparkle with
great beauty of transparency. BUT, it is filled with MUCILAGE. The Old Masters learned of this over centuries of oral tradition. Mucilage will ferment, decompose, and turn the oil paint
made with it, BROWN and DARK, if not removed. The Old Masters knew this and tried everything under the sun to remove it. Some succeeded and the evidence is their 600 year old oil
paintings with colors that remain jewel-like. After the Old Masters’ demise, 19th century scholars like Eastlake, followed by many generations of other artists, all tried their hand at
cleansing the oil. Finally, industry cleansed it with caustic lye chemicals, but ruined the oil’s durability, and properties, in the processing.

d. = Then, the Allback website says, the oil is ‘heated gently’ to remove the PROTEIN while it is exposed to OXYGEN. This oxygen procedure is not explained. But, I can add my personal
knowledge here. Since I have worked with the cleansing of the oil for 4 years now. The goal is to remove the Mucilage and by heating the oil, the heat thins the oil. This certainly helps
but it is not enough. Exposure to oxygen, especially if HEAT is being applied, is very necessary, or, the steam water vapors remain in the oil, causing and perpetuating moisture
retention and slow drying. Since Allback wants a faster drying oil, oxygen is part of the process. The Old Masters knew this too, that the oil must be left uncovered as it is being sun
thickened.
It is interesting that Allback calls the MUCILAGE, by the term, PROTEIN. Some call it BREAK, and, others call it the ‘FOOTS”. Regardless, the Allback website says it treats the oil with
several gentle heatings and does their very best to remove ALL the PROTEIN, as they call it. Only then, do they call this oil PURIFIED.
CONCLUSION ON ALLBACK'S PURIFIED LINSEED OIL. : Since I know the oil begins decomposition at 230 degrees centigrade, If I knew the temperature the Allback
PURIFIED oil is heated to, I could make an informed accurate decision. Llacking that, I cannot endorse Allback oil for fine art oil painting.
Some artists are either unaware of the decomposition temperature of oil or do not care.

CAUTION : ANY ADDED ANTIOXIDANT WILL SLOW THE DRYING: VITAMIN E
and TOCOPHEROLS IN THE OIL WILL SLOW DOWN THE DRYING-
When you buy your cold pressed, UNREFINED Flax Oil, BEWARE. MODERN COLD PRESSED
is really not COLD pressed because powerful Hydraulic presses crush the seeds. This modern equipment causes heating. Barleans has told me no additional
heat is applied to the oil, but that the presses heat up, and this causes the oil to heat up about 110 degrees F.. This is acceptable because it is far under the safe
heating temperature of where the oil decomposes at 230 degrees C.

My tests show that sun thickening the oil in moderate sunny San Diego California, 5 miles from the ocean, might have a temperature of 80degrees F., but the oil in
the white opaque container is about 125 degrees F. This sun exposure over 30 days is not harmful to the oil. Artists in hot Texas tell me 15 days is all they need to
sun their oil.

COLD PRESSED?
Old Holland company from the Netherlands states their oil is pressed by windmill power, as in the olden days. Their oil is excellent, but very expensive. Some may
wish to use only it. I settle for Barleans.

NOW THE WARNING:
Read the label. Since food grade Flax oil is REALLY being processed for human health, you need to READ the label carefully.
AVOID the oils that say they contain tocopherols, which are Vitamin E additives. This vitamin is not harmful, but slows down the drying of oil. ALSO AVOID any oils
with flavorings or any other ADDITIVES. Also, do not buy 'HIGHEST LIGNANS' oil or MIXED oils.

CLEANSED OIL TO THE RIGHT: IT WILL BE BRIGHT YELLOW AND FULLY
TRANSPARENT. THIS OIL IS STILL-A SLOW DRYING OIL.
Once the oil is cleansed of its damaging mucilage, it can be used for several important tasks in the 'Calcite Sun
Oil / Emulsions' method of oil painting.

1. It is ready to be sun thickened .Sun thickening takes 20-30 days depending on geographical area and season.
This process produces the VERY FINEST OIL or oil painting. FAR SUPERIOR to walnut, poppy, or any other oils
used by some. This is the PREMIER oil used by the greatest European Old Masters, the one spoken of by the
Renaissance master, Cennino Cennini.

2. Before the oil is sun thickened, it is limpid and yellow. It is used to make the simple ' Non Viscous' Emulsion"
described in my book. The Non Viscous Emulsion serves important tasks not offered by the Viscous Emulsion. If
not applied correctly, the Emulsions will fail.

3. Once this oil is Sun thickened, it is viscous and bleached.
It is then used to make the' Viscous Emulsion". Both emulsions are made within 30 seconds if the glair is
available. Glair takes 5 minutes to make. Both EMULSIONS are crucial to oil painting without solvents, resins
and varnishes or driers.

4. NOTE: USE low cost alkali refined linseed oil for cleaning your brushes, hands,
palette and grinding table.

SUN THICKENING YOUR OIL IS EASY
OIL can also be ' thickened" by using an electric hotplate in the winter--but the oil
remains yellow. Keep the temperature very low, under 130 degrees Fahrenheit. The oil
begins to decompose at 230 degrees Centigrade. Care must be taken for fire hazard
and burns. Artificial heat should be done outdoors and children should be protected.

THE PHOTO TO THE RIGHT, SHOWS THE OIL ONCE IT HAS BEEN SUN THICKENED
FOR 30 DAYS IN HOT SUMMER SUN. = BUGS AND DIRT GET INTO THE OIL, BUT ARE
EASILY FILTERED OUT. THE SUN EVAPORATES MOISTURE NATURAL TO THE OIL
CREATING A FAST DRYING OIL AND IT BLEACHES THE OIL. THE EXPOSURE TO THE
SUN RAYS, AIR AND HEAT CAUSES THE OIL TO BECOME VISCOUS. ALL OF THESE
CONDITIONS CREATE AN OIL THAT WILL DRY WITHIN 30 HOURS OR LESS WHEN
USED IN PAINT IF PAINTED THIBNLY. TUBE PAINT IS MADE WITH SLOW DRYING OIL
AND THIS SLIGHTLY SLOWS THE DRYING. HAND GROUND PAINTS ARE THE
FASTEST TO DRY.

THE OIL MUST BE STIRRED DAILY FOR 1 MINUTE, BUT IN EXTREMELY HOT
WEATHER, 2X A DAY. STIR BRISKLY TO INTRODUCE OXYGEN INTO THE OIL.

ADDITIONAL TESTS
The tests were started on 5/1/09 and 5/2/09

ON 6/23/09 I placed all samples in a box without
any light.

On 9/16/09, I removed the samples and took
photos of each. This almost 3 month standing in
darkness produced the following results.

#10= The ALLBACK BOILED LINSEED OIL fared
the worst of all 6 samples. A thick white
concentration sits on the water under the oil.

#6 = The ALLBACK PURIFIED LINSEED OIL,
recommended by some websites, fared almost as
bad as the PURE white matter rests on the water.

#13 = The Barleans Unrefined Food Grade Flax oil
That had been cleansed prior by the VEL-TAUB
method then sun thickened 30 days , shows an
extremely thin film resting on the water. This is due
to contact as described above.

# 11 = The Barleans Unrefined Food grade Flax Oil
that has not been cleansed of its mucilage shows a
thick white matter settling on the water

WARNING
DO NOT BE FOOLED
MAJOR BRANDS SELL LINSEED OIL WITH THE LABEL= "SUN THICKENED LINSEED OIL"
MAKING IT APPEAR THEY ARE LIKE THE OLD MASTERS' OIL.
THESE MODERN INDUSTRIAL OILS ARE SLOW DRYING OILS .
THE VERY FINE PRINT ON THE BACK LABEL DISCLOSES THAT THE OIL IS ALKALI REFINED LINSEED OIL

THE PSYLLIUM-ALCOHOL METHOD
OF CLEANSING THE UNREFINED FLAX OIL

THE NEW DVD, "OIL PAINTING WITH CALCITE SUN OIL "
demonstrates how to cleanse your oil, easily and efficiently.

The Old Masters' superior oil allows you to eliminate all hazardous ingredients from oil painting.
Total Processing time takes between 25 and 30 days depending on geographical area.
Hot summer sun rays are required. My home in San Diego, CA gets to about 80 F.

THE FRESHLY CLEANSED OIL IS SLOW DRYING. IT
MUST BE SUN THICKENED TO BLEACH IT AND TO
EVAPORATE THE INHERENT MOISTURE SO THE OIL
CAN BECOME VISCOUS AND FAST DRYING

SWEDISH LINSEED OIL PROCESSED FOR PAINTING HOUSES IS NOT RECOMMENDED FOR FINE
ART OIL PAINTING

Linseed Oil is FLAX OIL. There are NO ‘LIN” seeds in nature.
There is a strong world wide demand for Linseed Oil, and the flax plants are grown around the globe. The oil processed for INDUSTRIAL uses is labeled, “LINSEED” oil. The same oil, but
processed for human consumption is labeled, “FLAX” oil. The oil the Old Masters used was raw, unrefined, cold pressed FLAX oil. After it was freshly pressed, it was full of mucilage and of
vegetable particulate caused by the crushing of the seeds. This particulate is pulverized seed husks, dirt and other matter. If the oil is left to STAND STILL ( the original use of the word STAND
OIL), much but not all of the particulate drops to the bottom. However, no matter how long the oil is left to stand, gravity will not drop all the mucilage. The Old masters found this out and tried
everything to remove the mucilage. I have pasted some parts from the website of the Swedish company, ‘Allback’. Here is their website, and I encourage you to read it. These snips of their
site are on the FAQ section. Today, different words are used to describe the MUCILAGE. Some call it a ‘ BREAK”, and others like Allback Co. call it PROTEIN.
There site speaks for itself. Their product is processed oil made for painting houses, not for FINE ART painting.

THE FOLLOWING IS FROM THE ALLBACK WEBSITE

http://www.solventfreepaint.com/faq.htm#lead

Organic Linseed Paint from Allback, Sweden.
Allback Purified Organic Linseed Oil
The raw linseed oil is purified and refined through the addition of oxygen to produce boiled or "cooked" linseed oil. This process eliminates protein and improves aspects such as the drying
time, shine and purity.
Uses: 1) Thinning the linseed paint. 2) Maintenance of old linseed painted surfaces. 3) May be used as a first coat on extremely dried out wood. 4) Add a few ounces of paint to the boiled
linseed oil to create a stain. 5) Excellent for long term storage of paint brushes.
Purified linseed oil is used as a binding agent in Allback linseed oil paints. The raw oil is used for the glazing putty. This paint … lasts 50 years on the exterior of a building. Maintain every 5-
10 years with the Purified Organic Boiled Linseed Oil or the linseed oil wax.
What is "boiled" linseed oil and linseed oil paint? … Allback linseed oil and linseed oil paint is made from cold pressed flax seed grown in a northern, colder climate. ….The cold pressed oil
contains about 30% protein that is removed in a cleaning process. The removal of the protein is crucial for preventing mold and mildew. When the protein is removed, the oil can be boiled
and sterilized. This is contrary to the linseed oil products available in most paint stores. These products are NOT actually boiled even though they are labeled "boiled". Linseed oil that has the
protein cannot be boiled, it is technically impossible (the oil will become explosive when heated.) .If the linseed oil is not boiled and sterilized it does not dry. Substantial amounts of chemical
driers have to then be added to these "unclean" linseed oil products. The Allback linseed oil and paint is completely free from any chemical driers and dries naturally within a few days. ….
Will the linseed white paint yellow? Linseed oil paint of good quality yellows very little and only in the absence of daylight (like under a flowerpot.) The yellow tint disappears if the patch is
exposed to daylight. …..

How does linseed oil paint work?
The linseed oil in the paint gradually oxidizes with the air. After five to ten years it fades, hence why we encourage the application of a layer of warmed, cleaned, boiled linseed oil. The capillary
effect of the linseed oil in the paint will continuously penetrate into the wood and prevent moisture from entering. This will maintain the wood perfectly

How does Allback clean their linseed oil? After the flax seed have been cold pressed, the oil is heavily stirred and then stored. The protein in the oil will sink to the bottom after approximately 4
weeks. The oil is then pumped off the surface. This process is repeated until the oil is cleaned. Low heat is used to speed up the separation of the oil and the protein. It is very important for
the quality of the paint to remove as much protein as possible. The linseed oil can then be boiled and sterilized. When the oil is sterilized, it dries and the need for any added chemicals is
eliminated.

What else is linseed paint good for?
Linseed paint is also excellent for rust proofing anything from steel, house hardware to automobiles…….

POSTED: 8/4/2010: UPDATE ON FRANCISCO PACHECO's 1649 METHOD OF
PROCESSING THE UNREFINED FLAX OIL.
NOTE: Francisco Pacheco was the teacher of Spain's great painter, Diego Velazquez.
In Feb. 2008 I was in Madrid and bought the modern 700 page reprint of Pacheco's 1649 book, I
have conducted many tests on the instructions he gave us to follow.
My two books give results of all the experiments I have made to date regarding that.. As I have
clearly stated before: Since my site is dedicated to NO SOLVENTS, it is ONLY because of the
important Historical value of Pacheco's method that I include it. His method uses the Lavender
flower buds and the processing leaves SPIKE SOLVENT in the oil. Therefore, if you use the
PACHECO METHOD, be aware of the solvent. I also have clearly stated that Pacheco's method
inspired me to create the PSYLLIUM HUSK-ALCOHOL METHOD, which uses the same principle but
WITHOUT THE LAVENDER- creating a fine oil without any SPIKE SOLVENT.
NOW AFTER OVER TWO YEARS OF WORKING WITH PACHECO'S METHOD,

I OFFER TODAY'S PAINTERS A MODIFICATION: IT IS TITLED:
The CSO-PACHECO METHOD. - HERE IS THE PROCEDURE:
1. PRE-CLEAN the 16 ounces of unrefined Flax oil using my PSYLLIUM-HUSK-ALCOHOL METHOD
( see above). Place the cleansed oil in a quart jar.
2. Add a handful of the dry lavender flower buds to the 16 ounces of cleansed oil , cap the jar and
shake well. Then immediately do the next step.
3. IN A SEPARATE JAR, MIX 3 ounces of 80 or 101 proof alcohol ( no higher proof) with 2 ounces
[volume not weight] of dry Psyllium husk and mix well for about 3 minutes.
4. Add this husk-alcohol mixture to the quart jar holding the oil and lavender. Cap the jar and shake
well. Let stand a couple of hours and shake the jar vigorously a few times for 30 seconds.
5. Pour the entire contents into a 10 inch wide white opaque glass container. Place it out into the
hot summer sun direct sun rays with lots of ventilation. Protect the oil from any moisture.
6. Stir the contents daily until the oil becomes COMPLETELY BLEACHED. Then allow it to remain
until it achieves the viscosity YOU desire. PACHECO recommended 15 days in the searing hot
Southern Spanish town of Seville. Your area may need more time. Once finished, FILTER the oil
using a cotton filter. You may need a double Filtering.

MY BOOKS AND DVDS CAN BE PURCHASED FROM AMAZON.COM - Thank You