CSO - AGUADO CSO's " Aguado" is an Oil Out Medium that allows painting large sized oil paintings with ease, speed and efficiency CSO's AGUADO is new, it is not described in my book. Scroll to see the CSO/AGUADO OIL OUT MEDIUM INTRODUCING the NEW OIL OUT MEDIUM ESPESO Please see the page: VAN EYCK SECRET |
The CALCITE SUN OIL/AGUADO method was developed in July 2009 This expansion of the 2002 creation of the Calcite Sun Oil/ Emulsions method, complements and gives the painter increased power for painting large sized paintings. It can be used effectively for small sized paintings as well, and provides the PLEIN AIRE painter a simple effortless procedure. It does NOT eliminate the use of the CSO/EMULSIONS method as I will explain later. Both, the CSO/EMULSIONS and the CSO/AGUADO methods can reach their full potential ONLY if the SUPERIOR LINSEED/FLAX OIL of the Old Masters is used. This extraordinary oil can be easily processed by all persons. Please see my other web pages for full instructions. WHAT IS AGUADO? It is an "OIL OUT" mixture. It is NOT a painting medium nor a paint thinner. As ab effective oil out..the cso paint glides effortlessly on the surface of the support, and stays as placed. HOW DO YOU MAKE AGUADO? The AGUADO mixture is made of 1 part of the fast drying Superior oil with 1and1/2 parts of Calcium Carbonate Chalk from Champagne France. It must be ground on a grinding table then stored in a capped jar. Adding chalk and oil in a jar and stirring causes lumps. WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TWO METHODS -- AGUADO and EMULSIONS? The early Flemish paintings by the Van Eycks and others were generally - not always- of small size and on wood panels. The smooth wood support and the method used... allowed micro-fine details with great versimilitude in the photo realistic effects. The CSO/EMULSIONS method can duplicate those effects and the wonderful paint quality. This is done without any use of Driers, Varnishes, Resins or Solvents. It depends in great part on the SUPERIOR oil my book and site describe. The two EMULSIONS I developed are truly a 'Wonder Medium", and are an integral part of the method. HOWEVER- the 2 emulsions MUST be applied in a special way. This application method takes a bit of time to get it right. This application method is ideal for smaller easel paintings up to 24" X 30" , but if an artist is faced with a 6 foot tall canvas, the task is daunting. The huge Baroque paintings like those of Rubens required an easier method. These are the reasons for the development of the CSO/AGUADO method.....Speed, Efficiency and Ease. My development of AGUADO occurred through normal evolution of time and need. Only by using the perfected CSO/Emulsions method over several years, experiencing its specific requirements and needs as I painted with it, and as were expressed to me by others, was it then possible to understand the need for expansion, then to think, test, and develop. The CSO/ AGUADO method could not have been developed WITHOUT first developing the CALCITE SUN OIL/ EMULSIONS mixtures, the development of its application methods, and proving its value by actual painting. I am very excited of this breakthrough development. I have painted with it and I am amazed at its power. Though there are some ratio mixture tests yet to be made, the method is simple and fool proof. |
| PAINTINGS MADE WITH CALCITE SUN OIL/ AGUADO |
AGUADO = A HISTORY OF ITS DEVELOPMENT Since the year 2000, when I unknowingly began this now 9 year trek of the Calcite Sun Oil / Emulsions method, I have never HURRIED, nor even been concerned with the OUTCOME. Every step , every new DEVELOPMENT, each happened on its own time. After having painted almost 45 years with TAUBES' resin solvent method I had NO IDEA I was to write a book , and less so, on OIL PAINTING WITHOUT Frederic Taubes' SOLVENTS, RESINS, VARNISHES and DRIERS. NOTHING could have been farther from my mind. YET, now 9 years later, here I sit with a published book focusing precisely on those important issues. Since 2004, because of my book, many very fine and great artists around the world, are now thinking more about the oil they use, and about the oil in their tube oil paints, and about the REVOLUTION happing today : OIL PAINTING WITHOUT HAZARDOUS SOLVENTS and without the other hazardous materials. Several times during this long trek, I have said to myself, "I AM FINISHED!". Only to be awaken to the fact that I was NOT finished. The rest break times were important. I am a slow contemplative type thinking person. I dream concepts at night with answers and solutions coming slowly during the day. I HAVE met many fine painters across the globe because they bought my book and through numerous letters we became fast friends. I have only met a couple who had an axe to grind, but the rest were respectful, gracious and very knowledgeable about oil painting. Recently, I met Mr. MAURICIO FERNANDEZ- GUTTIEREZ whose fine paintings can be seen at : www.mauriciogallery.com . This fine painter is a resident of the 450 year old, but modern city of PUEBLA, MEXICO . During our conversations he brought up one VERY GOOD QUESTION, about the CSO/EMULSIONS method. He asked how it would be used in large mural sized paintings. Of course he was referring to the method described in my book on the application method of the ' OIL OUT' with the EMULSION. MY FIRST RESPONSE was that the Old Masters had WORKSHOPS with working students to do the menial labor. They were in the business of earning money, and teaching. They hired their finest students to help them complete commissions. Rubens had a huge WAREHOUSE studio in Antwerp, Belgium. I have seen it inside and out. The grinding of colors, preparation of paint, preparation of canvas and panels ...was NOT done by master Rubens...as neither was the grisaille underpainting. OF COURSE there were paintings he did on his own -and his letters show he offered them at a higher price. BUT, I TOOK MAURICIO'S comment serious. There is a huge difference--in SIZE--between the small paintings of the Flemish masters of the 15th century, and those HUGE paintings by the BAROQUE master RUBENS in the 17th century. THIS FACT, led me to develop an EXPANSION of my original CSO/EMULSIONS method, which uses the EMULSION as the 'OIL OUT". Those who do not know, this EMULSION must be applied correctly, and the detailed instructions are in my book. The application takes time and one works on relatively smaller areas. a 30X40 inch painting appears very HUGE with this method. YET, the original CSO/EMULSIONS method is a method of perfection, allowing the finest detailed work and an ease and CONTROL of the paint not equaled by the SOLVENT-RESIN methods. A SECOND THING happened AT THE SAME TIME as Mauricio's question. THIS was my development of a SIMPLIFIED method to teach HIGH SCHOOL students NON SOLVENT oil painting on a shoestring budget, WITHOUT THE EMULSION and WITHOUT THE SUPERIOR OIL. The challenge caused me several trials and many errors. I finally did develop a workable method, and in a year or two when I do revise my book, It will be included in detail. NOW. BACK TO PROFESSIONAL PAINTERS INTRODUCING the new, " AGUADO" mixture of oil and chalk. THE REMAINDER OF THIS ESSAY WILL DESCRIBE THE EXPANSION OF THE CSO/EMULSIONS METHOD. This advancement can be used by painters who paint LARGE paintings, as it allows speed. Yes, it can also be used in making small paintings too. HERE IT IS: 1. PREPARATION OF THE SUPPORT: Of course the support, whatever you paint on, MUST BE SEALED, MADE COMPLETELY NON ABSORBENT. There are several ways to isolate the priming ground. My book gives several. 2. DRAWING: Drawing can be done wet or dry. WE KNOW VELAZQUEZ did not draw with pencil, charcoal, nor ink..as VAN EYCK did. Velazquez drew with a medium dark paint [ not black]. After Rubens met Velazquez in 1628- Velazquez switched to light colored pale grounds- like Rubens used. After draw-painting his dark image, Velazquez scratched guiding lines into the wet dark paint. They served him as a guide. These were easily covered up [ but 350 years later the translucency of the paint allows us to see the scratch lines]. 3. AGUADO OIL OUT= The oil out process serves many important functions. I have named it "AGUADO" in order to identify it and to be able to discuss it. The word, " AGUADO" is Spanish for ' THIN" , as in when a liquid mixture is very loose and thinned. ITS OPPOSITE WOULD BE " THICK". HERE IS HOW TO USE "AGUADO" as the oil out. USING the superior oil , GRIND the chalk with the oil RATIO: 1 part oil ...with... 1and 1/2 parts chalk. APPLY it to the support with a wide brush. WIPE IT DOWN evenly, removing all excess, with a rag, it becomes colorless. You will note that the chalk causes the fluid viscous oil to remain where it is placed. To those of you who have my recent copy of my book, dated October 2008, on page 53 ,under the heading ; ADDITIONAL INFORMATION, you will note it says " The Calcium Carbonate, like the egg, adds body and provides stability to the paint, preventing sagging or dripping". The next paragraph describes how to use CSO as an OIL OUT. When I wrote this, my experiments had proven what I wrote --but I had not envisioned at that time, this expanded use of this mixture named, "AGUADO". This use of AGUADO is a wonderful expansion of the CSO/EMULSIONS method. IT DOES NOT ELIMINATE the use of the VISCOUS or the NON VISCOUS EMULSIONS, but rather COMPLIMENTS and EXPANDS the CSO METHOD ... making it more versatile. -Louis R. Velasquez , July 4, 2009 |
| LOUIS PAINTS A PORTRAIT WITH THE CSO/AGUADO METHOD - July 4 and 5 , 2009 This painting is now featured on the new DVD. Here I show only a couple of photos SUPPORT: 12 INCH x 12 INCH, 1/2 inch birch plywood. Traditional Rabbit skin glue size, and traditional Rabbit skin glue gesso made with Calcium Carbonate. One coat of Size, Two thin coats of gesso. One thin gray coat of Size to seal the ABSORBENT gesso, to render it NON-ABSORBENT. IT is VERY important to isolate the gesso so it will NOT remove oil from the paint. There is NO NEED to create a MECHANICAL LOCK. If your eyes could for a moment see at the microscopic level, you would see the gesso is full of cavities. A layer of glue does not fill those cavities as liquids conform to the shape of their surface. UNDERDRAW : VELAZQUEZ would not have drawn with a pencil. He drew with the dark paint. I drew the image with pencil. I did not fix it. I mixed a little VENETIAN RED TUBE PAINT with the AGUADO, to give it a warm color on the GRAY gesso. I brushed the AGUADO mixture on the surface with a wide brush. I used a rag to wipe it evenly. Excess was removed. This took seconds. INTO THIS wet paint film, I continued the next step. UNDERPAINT: I believe in leaving BLACK to the finish stage. One gets all the darks one needs by mixing BURNT UMBER and ULTRAMARINE BLUE in equal amounts. AS with the CSO method, one mixes 50/50 of the CSO with the tube paint. THIS creates a viscous sticky paint. A BRISTLE BRUSH is needed to underpaint as it easily moves the viscous paint. The viscous paint blends extraordinarily easy, yet the CSO mixture keeps all brushmarks sharp if not blended. I used this darkpaint to define the image and some shadows. I mixed what I call a HALF-WHITE. This is a mixture of Titanium Dioxide WHITE TUBE OIL PAINT with enough BURNT UMBER to about a level 3 or 4 on a VALUE scale [ PURE WHITE is 1 and PURE BLACK is 10]. This HALF-WHITE keeps the white value in check and eliminates the CHALKY white effect. WITH THIS half white I painted into the wet paint and created what is known by many names: DEAD COLOR/ MONOTONE/ GRISAILLE. I put in some arrows to show the pencil drawing. VAN EYCK would have made a detailed pencil drawing and would have carefully INKED it. I draw with loose gestures. THE SMALL PHOTO shows the loose dark background. USING VELAZQUEZ technique, I used the brush end to scratch a DOVE will completely cover up the lines..until hundreds of years later-as the oil paint becomes more translucent..the lines will peek through thin paint. I used two brushes. One a 1/4 inch ROUND BRISTLE and the other a thin fine sable. THE LINES OF THE FEATHER were scratched into the wet paint. Light colored paint applied with the thin sable brush are visible. AGAIN, THIS IS A DEMONSTRATION, but the underpainting stage is easily done. It is smooth, fast, unhindered. Very little blending is required because the bristle brush easily blends the viscous CSO PAINT. THIXOTROPY is a wonderful quality. You can see the fine wet LIGHT COLORED paint lines are painted ON TOP OF the wet DARK PAINT LAYERS. They blend as one wishes. LINES and brushmarks are at your command. You can leave them sharp or blend them smooth...easily. THIS WAS THE END OF THE FIRST DAYS WORK. THIS BEGAN AT 11AM and FINISHED ONE HOUR LATER. THE NEXT DAY - 20 HOURS LATER / AT 8 AM- I BEGAN TO OVER PAINT IN FULL COLOR. The paint from the previous day was dry. This FANTASTIC quality is one of the benefits of the SUPERIOR OIL of the OLD MASTERS . I use no additives to my oil. It certainly helps to paint with UMBER and ULTRAMARINE BLUE in the lower stages as these colors are fast drying colors. MIXING the umber with the white helps dry the white paint- known to be always a slow drying color. THE CSO METHOD is NOT impacted by the FAT ON LEAN principle. The essay above explains why. EACH OF THE TUBE COLORS was mixed with CSO. The surface was brushed with AGUADO and wiped evenly. THE OIL OUT APPLICATION IS EASY . IN THE SPACE OF one and a half hours, I finished the COLOR STAGE , the painting to the right. The other details show the scratch lines that defined the dove, which are covered. The lines of the branches are left visible on purpose.. THE FINISH STAGE [ not shown here ] COMES NEXT It is the hardest yet most rewarding part. That of living with the painting, seeing it everyday under normal family conditions. Hearing the comments of others and, more important seeing ALL THE BAD THINGS I DO NOT LIKE in the painting. Also, IN MY sleep I solution the difficulties of the painting. I am never in a hurry to FINISH the painting. This stage is where the glazes, the fine details, the corrections are slowly made. It is seemingly never ending. DURING this stage , I RECOMMEND switching to the VISCOUS EGG GLAIR /OIL EMULSIONS as the OIL OUT MEDIUM. THE AGUADO is 98% TRANSPARENT. THE VISCOUS EMULSION is 100% TRANSPARENT. |


THE LION AND THE BIRD THIS PAINTING IS NOW FEATURED ON THE NEW DVD OIL PAINTING WITH CALCITE SUN OIL DAY ONE : 7/17/09 1/2 inch birch plywood. Sealed with one coat of clear Rabbit Skin Glue. Two thin coats of Traditional coat of clear Rabbit Skin Glue NO UNDERDRAWING. Oil out with AGUADO. Tube paint mixed with CSO 50/50. The image was painted in one color. Venetian Red. Scratch marks to define vague areas serve as an invisible drawing that will be covered. END OF DAY ONE. ALLOWED TO DRY OVERNIGHT DAY TWO= 7/18= NEXT DAY The paint was dry. You are ready for the next layer when a vigorous oil out application of the AGUADO with a bristle brush and wiping off of excess agauado...will not smear the underpaint layer from yesterday. I do not use BLACK in any underlayers. I use PURE BLACK only in the FINISH STAGE. I make a DARK color by mixing equal amounts of BURNT UMBER and ULTRAMARINE BLUE tube paint. I use OLD HOLLAND brand.. IT is mixed 50/50 with CSO. This gives the weak soft tube paint ..a luster and hardness in drying and the CSO gives it the reqisite VISCOSITY to allow THIXOTROPIC applications of WET paint on top of WET PAINT. The dark paint, is thin and with a bristle brush and on the aguado oil out it glides effortlessly on the surface. NOTE: I now have the THREE important tones... the pale gray from the toned gesso (as Rubens did], The mid tone of the Venetian Red. and the DARK tone. The grisalle seen next, is an important tone. INTO this wet surface I began to paint in some local color--the tan of the lion..the blue of the back ground, and some GRISAILLE in the bird and areas of the lion. I do not use PURE WHITE for good reasons. I make a 'half-white" which is a mix of Burnt Umber and White [ your choice, I use Titanium Dioxide] * The umber accelerates the drying of the white and any raised impasto * The lowered value of the half-white keeps the VALUES in check., and increases color variety THIS STRUCTURE was allowed to dry over night DAY THREE = 7/19 The paint was dry and I applied the AGUADO OIL OUT. ALL colors except BLACK were mixed with CSO. The painting progressed with some details and improvement of textures, etc. DAY FOUR : 7/20 The next day the paint was dry. Oil out with AGUADO. All colors mixed with CSO. PURE BLACK WAS USED FOR THE FIRST TIME. The painting is 90% finished. As time permits, the next steps will be to continue the color development. 7/21/09= I did no work on the painting. The ultra thin ' oil out' with the VISCOUS EMULSION is a PERMANENT LAYER of the painting. DO NOT CONFUSE it with removable resin varnishes of dammar that become yellow and last only 40 years and require removal and replacement. THE VISCOUS EMULSION oil out film is part of the ACTUAL PAINTING. It is PERMANENT. IT DRIES to a crystal NON YELLOWING FILM, as all thin films of flax/linseed oil will, when exposed to sunny rooms. WHERE the AGUADO is subdued in sheen, THE VISCOUS EMULSION dries to a HARD, 100% crystal clear, non yellowing, PERMANENT satin sheen, that fully shows the depth and luster of the CSO PAINT. I RECOMMEND that when an AGUADO 'oil out' is used in the painting.... that a FINAL ultra-thin layer of the VISCOUS EMULSION should be applied. |

| 1. THE AGUADO MIXTURE IS REALLY BUT A THINNED SMALL AMOUNT OF CHALK...THEREFORE, IT IS FULLY COMPATIBLE WITH THE TWO EMULSIONS. they can be used together in the same painting. 2. SINCE THE AGUADO MIXTURE IS 98% TRANSPARENT, AND SINCE THE EMULSIONS ARE 100% TRANSPARENT, I RECOMMEND USING THE EMULSIONS AS THE OIL OUT ON VERY FINE DETAILED WORK AND ON THE FINAL FINISH LAYERS. 3. THE EMULSION OIL OUT HAS MORE USES AND WILL ACCOMPLISH SOME THINGS THE AGUADO WILL NOT. BY GRINDING THE EMULSION WITH IMPASTO PAINT , THE EMULSION WILL PREVENT WRINKLING - WHEREAS THE ADDED VISCOUS OIL OF THE AGUADO TO THICK IMPASTO WILL NOT. THE EMULSIONS CAN BE USED TO THIN THE PAINT THE EMULSION WILL BE PREFERRED FOR FINE DETAIL TECHNIQUES |

